(images via Vogue)
However, compared to the menswear, the womenswear was breathtakingly beautiful to my eyes. The draping and casually twisted fabrics played perfectly in harmony with the body in movement. I loved the lightness of the clothing, especially with those fog coats in movement, where hand-knotted ostrich feathers were mounted to gazar silk (a fabric that holds its shape incredibly well and was designed in collaboration with Cristóbal Balenciaga in the 1960s). Rick said that he was inspired by the idea of fragility for this show, with the name being a nod towards anthropological shifts and the fragility of ecological balances. Whereas Walrus for men seemed to be about these strong alien shapes, for the women is was an ephemeral beauty that was transfixing to see in motion (please do watch the video if you get the chance - I must say that the music really was spot on for the show). But as much as we can talk of lightness and the ephemeral, it was reassuring to know that Rick continues to subvert with his material choices - linen tulle, stiff cotton buckram, and even horsehair for the windbreakers. People often talk of decay where Rick's clothes are concerned, but here it definitely felt like he was building monuments to fragility.