20 August 2017

Supreme FW17: Back With The Fire


Not so guilty secret: I am a Supreme fan (check out my podcast episode on Supreme and the Louis Vuitton collaboration here). 

After a few less than stellar seasons, it seems like Supreme is thankfully back on form for this Fall/Winter 2017 season, and I actually have my eye on quite a few pieces. 

Sportswear and streetwear are how I first got into thinking about how we invest clothing with social meaning, although I most certainly did not think of it in those terms at the time. As I have said before on the blog I grew up surrounded by sportswear, and my world was one of stark contrasts. School uniform ignited a love of tailoring, but I am equally at home talking to sneakerheads and still actively follow all of the “hypebeast” brands, from A Cold Wall to Palace, even though I doubt I would wear the vast majority of it. I enjoy seeing the resurgence of the 90s sportswear aesthetic that I grew up with, especially when seen through a more multicultural lens. This stands in opposition to the current Post Soviet trend that I actually find alienating due to my own childhood memories and experiences that associate the look with racism.

Supreme is one of those brands, like Stussy, that I think that I will always have a soft spot for, simply because of how diverse their work is and the fact that it crosses so many boundaries. For my own part, I tend to find the quieter pieces more engaging, which I know is hardly surprising, but thankfully they do relatively quite clothing alongside some absolutely batsh*t crazy stuff, which is for me part of the charm. They makes things that make me smile and you do not have to think too hard about, and I really enjoy that. I have spoken about the recent collaboration with Louis Vuitton, which I think was a good move on their part, however I did not find the end result anything worth paying attention to. But it seems that for this season they have really gotten back to doing what they do best, and while we have to wait for each collaboration to come out closer to their drop dates, I think that this is by far the strongest collection in a while. 

So I thought that I would share some of the pieces that have caught my eye...

Wool overcoat

I am actually in the market for a new smart Winter coat, and this seems to fit the bill nicely. I never particularly used to care about leopard print, but after falling in love with these Yohji leopard print sneakers from the Autumn/Winter 2013 collection, I would love to add a little touch to my wardrobe.

Supreme x Schott Faux Fur Peacoat

Damn snuggly. That is all.

Polartec Harrington Jacket

I have the Polartec fleece sweatshirt from last year and it is such a lovely material. Would be interested in seeing how these jackets feel to wear.

Hooded fleece nylon shirt

Quilted front and fleece - has a nice cosy feel for the upcoming colder months.

Oxford shirt

The sizing for Supreme shirts seem to change from season to season, but I have an overdyed black work shirt that fits spot on and is a really nice quality. So if these oxfords have similar measurements I will have to give them serious consideration.

Leather front polo sweater

I enjoy old school cardigans, and this has a retro appeal to it.

Patchwork hooded sweater

I doubt that I would ever wear these, but I really enjoy the colour blocking - makes me think of my childhood.

Supreme x Everlast satin hooded boxing robe

This has a certain Del Boy appeal to it that makes me smile. Totally tacky, but totally awesome.

Supreme x Andis Envy Li adjustable blade clipper

I cut my own hair, so why not. I am usually a Wahl man, but I hear nothing but good things about Andis.

Supreme x Vanson leather x-ray gloves

I do not ride motorcycles, I have no interest in riding motorcycles, but I still quite like motorcycle gear. These gloves are ridiculous but cool.

Lock box

A thoroughly useful item, with thoroughly unnecessary branding. Silly but fun.

Pledge allegiance keychain

Supremely relevant. See what I did there? Sorry, I'll see myself out. But seriously, f*** Trump.

P.S. I buy all my Supreme at retail price on drop day. The resale prices are insane (and how I make a little extra pocket money 🙊), and they are only clothes - if I miss them, I miss them.

What are your thoughts on this season's drop?

xxxx

12 August 2017

SS18 Favourites: Berluti


Spring/Summer 2018










I have decided to focus on my individual favourites from the Paris shows rather trying to fit them all into a singular post - starting with Berluti…  

I was actually more interested in Haider Ackermann’s second Berluti collection this season than his own eponymous menswear show. Given free reign I think that he is capable of producing amazingly beautiful clothes, but they do have a very narrow scope that can be difficult to incorporate into everyday life. Unless of course your life includes lots of lounging around artfully in old palaces while someone paints your portrait and exotic cats gambol around at your feet, in which case all power to you. Taken as individual pieces, small luxuries that add a sparkle to your wardrobe, it most certainly works well. However I find it difficult to imagine wearing head-to-toe Haider as daily garb without it veering into the territory of costume rather than dress. Admittedly he has been slowly broadening out his offerings, but even so, I have always liked the idea of a more toned down version of Ackermann’s design language and seeing what he is capable of achieving when given a more focused framework.

I enjoy seeing designers at historic fashion houses who already have their own label, because it is interesting to see how they attempt to translate their skills to interpret the house style. Of course it means a lot more work and pressure for the designer, especially with the larger houses, which can have the unfortunate side effect of their own label suffering. It is a challenge that can burn out a lot of designers, but with a supportive structure it can be incredibly successful (even so, there are reports of conglomerates leaving their star designers’ namesake labels to wither). It seems that with the musical chairs fashion has been experiencing as of late it could go either way, but I hope that Ackermann is able to stick around and really leave his mark on Berluti. I think that I liked this collection more in terms of the potential that it offers - that glimpse of where the house is headed that is quite interesting. While I think that this collection, just like his debut offering, was mature and well rounded, I am excited to see how he develops things further. There was a more relaxed sense of luxury in comparison to the previous designer Sartori’s work (who is now artistic designer across the board for Zegna), that I think was a welcome change.

What did you think of Haider's second outing at Berluti?

xxxx

10 July 2017

Episode 06 - Leave the ticket, take the cannoli




Episode 06
"Leave the ticket, take the cannoli"

In the latest episode of my podcast I discuss some of the issues raised from the explosive Vestoj interview with Lucinda Chambers, who served as Fashion Director at British Vogue for 25 years. The interview was published, pulled the same day, re-uploaded the next day and has now been published in an amended form following legal talk. You can read that amended version here (the original version can still be found online, if you are willing to look - alternatively I have it saved and can send it to anyone who requests). The two main issues I cover are that of the utility of fashion magazines like Vogue, and the problematic relationship between advertisers and publications and why we need greater transparency in fashion journalism and critique.

Hope you enjoy. And please go buy Vestoj.

xxxx