18 January 2010

"What in the Dickens?" *

Although the next few days and weeks shall no doubt see a profusion of reviews and coverage, in varying degrees of quality, of the Fall/Winter 2010 collections (Salvatore Ferragamo looks gorgeous), I hope my readers will indulge me the opportunity to peruse back over the Spring 2010 collections.

A quick step into the outside world and one can easily attest to the overwhelming desire that occurs to wrap up warm. Whilst the Fall collections currently showing shall no doubt seem perfect for the current weather, it gets rather odd when one considers that they are intended for the end of a year barely started. Spring may seem forever away, however if one were to make the climb up upon a snowy peak, there is a glimmer upon the horizon which promises something wonderful. Warmer weather, blossoming flowers and birdsongs are not quite around the corner, but they are slowly but surely coming into sight.

Z Zegna
Spring 2010

The fashion calendar often seems focused merely on the newest must-have purchase, and with such an attitude there are those collections and creations which can fall unnoticed into the wayside. Showcased what seems like a lifetime ago in Milan was the Z Zegna Spring 2010 collection. The collection did not really stir up much comment or attention at the time, however it has been one that has seemed to have grown all-reaching tendrils across the landscape of my mind since the seed planted upon its display.

My love affair with historical referencing is no secret, and I would gladly wear a frock coat and high collar given the opportunity. Unfortunately such a literal application of past dress verges into the realm of costume rather than everyday dress. Referencing is therefore the important word, and it is one that I admire in this collection. Removing accessories such as the footwear and hats, and the look as a whole loses the more obvious references, and becomes a suitable modern and sharp look. Indeed the looks shown without the hats have a comfortable and casual elegance to them, which is also lent by the lighter colour palette.

I enjoyed the look of the jackets, with their strong shoulders and nipped in waists, although I do wish that the arm holes had been cut higher than they seem to have been. The shape of the jackets were not far from the very broad shoulders and tightly cinched waists of the early Victorian menswear that may have served as inspiration. Indeed this was a parallel highlighted particularly with the use of the top hats, although admittedly far more casual and slightly slouched.

The cut of the trousers was also quite interesting. The high rise was paired with a very closely cut line, which far from providing a continuous line as would be seen in the Victorian example, followed the contours of the leg rather intimately (most noticeable just below the knees). However perhaps parallels can be drawn to riding breeches, which were often worn on formal occasions during the period. It was this fusion of inspirations and historical references, along with the inherent skill required to make them contemporary and relevant, which I so greatly enjoyed. I suddenly have an overwhelming urge to get my Mad Hatter on...

* I realise that 'dickens' is not a reference to the author in the original phrase, hence the capital 'D'.

My apologies for the recent absence, I have been going through rather a rough period and did not feel comfortable in posting for the sake of posting. Please do bear with me as I catch up with correspondences and blog reading.

Currently playing: Heart Of A Lion - Kid Cudi



  1. I love Zegna.

    P.S.: ♥Please don't forget to join the Three Birds Designs giveaway!♥

    Good luck!


  2. I love the black and white shoes

    reminds me of this boy at school, I mean I was only 8 but I loved him because he always wore these polished black shoes and snow-white socks, even though all the other boys had grey or black.

  3. french cuffs are really my thing, but that tailored line...mmm

  4. such a slender sleek style. glad you are back.

  5. very modern day..too. so cool. good to see a post from you too.

  6. Such a beautiful color. So love the wrist warmer too.

    Oh, I posted something today..I'm not sure who he is. Maybe you know. I really would love to know who he is.

  7. i have always dreamed of wearing a top hat. Lovely inspiration here.
    Hope everything is ok. no pressure but cant wait for you to be "back"!

  8. I absolutely ADORE this collection. It is so chic and edgy and yet kind of casual. I especially love the outfit in the first photo. :)

  9. i LOVE this look. so DAPPER!

  10. I really like the cut of the jackets...and white pants are so fresh. I hope all is well, doll.

  11. I love the cut of the pants, although I know it's not very popular (at least here).

    I hope you are feeling better, DK!

  12. Great collection. Very fresh. :)

  13. Loving the whole circus-inspiration thing. Couldn't really picture any of male friends wearing top hats and pin-stripes, but I'm loving the tailoring and the look of that bag is starting to make me envious!

    - Anna Jane xxx

  14. this is such a wonderful, inspiring collection...i too, love period looks!

  15. Of course, the writer is completely fair.