28 June 2008


Upon first glance these images could be more than somewhat confusing, but Yohji Yamamoto has never really followed the rest of the crowd when it comes to fashion. He has been labelled a philosopher, a genius and even the sexiest man alive. Giorgio Armani has called him 'a poet' and Donna Karen 'an artist'. Harper's Bazaar wrote that his desgins are 'often spiritual, intellectual, lyrical, abstract, sometimes difficult, yet always beautiful.' Indeed his collections serve to be both avant garde and classic at the same time, through the use of dark fabrics applied to almost androgynous, asexual creations. Yohji himself states that 'I want to achieve anti-fashion through fashion; that’s why I am always heading in my own direction, in parallel to fashion'.

The 1980s saw Yohji and other Japanese designers descend into Paris, bringing with them strange draping black asymmetric creations, so far removed from the glamourous and often egocentric designs of the time. His early designs were actual inspired from uniforms, specifically those of post war Japan, especially poignant for him, as his mother was a war widow. In terms of his womenswear, he seperated himself from other desginers, in that he focused on the back of all garments and built his way from there. The reason he gave for this was that the back was the most sensual and beautiful part of a woman, the curves of the back gave structure to her whole being, therefore any clothing should accentuate and celebrate this.

Yohji continues his ideas of celebration into his Spring 2009 collection. It is a celebration of all ages and sizes. The runway was oddly occupied with men of around his age, with wonderfully aged looks, looking almost like faded beauty, thereby signalling a hint of sorrow within the celebration. Backstage he said 'the world is becoming worse and worse. My message is, let's be happy.' The hints of red and blue are for Yohji's designs very upbeat, for one is usually confronted with a sea of black and greys at his shows. I find it odd that a man often marginalised as an artistic hero, a conceptual genius, for the upper classes, is also almost an embassador for democratic fashion on the runways.

*EDIT* Thought I'd share some photographs of the Espadrilles I ended up getting!
Currently playing: Only U - Ashanti / Speed Of Sound - Coldplay



  1. Hi, I think your blog is suprisingly good, not only for someone as young as you are.

    I especially loved your reportage on fashion trends in Tokyo and the Holga... bring it on !

    I linked you in my blog... feel free to visit and do the same.

    cheers from Paris,

    marina hermanovna

  2. I like how he showed fashion is timeless & no matter how old you are, you can dress well!

    The asymmetrical jacket was so good!

  3. i dunno if you've already been tagged to do this...but, well, i've tagged you!

    i noticed that you're a half music blogger, so, i figured you might be interested?

    details on my blog if you are!


  4. Some people loved those YY models but I don't know, I prefer my catwalkers to be more, um, model-y?? Good job on the espadrilles, by the by!

  5. Hey regular people like to look good too! Although catwalk models are ideal, it still gives people a realistic view of how these clothes might look on them. I also love the songs in your 'currently playing' list :)

  6. i really love those models. don't know why, but i always had a thing for older gentlemen :)

  7. Honestly, I think his use of these men as models is refreshing.
    Attractive people are getting so boring.

  8. Great post, I love Yohji and I think the outfits look wonderful on the older men as well! I wish more designers would do similar shows..

  9. Love those shoes!!!

    When I saw the pictures from the runway show I about died!! I loved it!! It was pretty clever and refreshing to see something different!

  10. His designs are beautiful, and his models are great! Thanks for posting this up.

  11. i think thats really amazing that he did that and i wish more designers would follow his lead

  12. nice shoes, love this color