27 April 2010

Those Trousers

Richard Chai is one of the few designers who I think consistently shows wonderfully wearable clothing. Since he launched his menswear line in Fall 2008 he seems to have flown under the radar, albeit receiving a nod from the CFDA as one of the Fashion Fund's finalists. I feel it is a bit of a shame really, but I suppose that considering how he actually owns his own label, his work is perhaps not afforded the same media opportunities as other designers who may be under the wing of major backers.

I suppose I feel that were Chai to show in London as opposed in New York he would garner far greater attention. Yet, as much as London allows a chance for less well-known designers to show, it does not lend itself to finding that all important security of financial backing. Alas, London is a cruel mother to her young fashion designers. Then again, given that Chai shows in New York, it does suggest that he has quite the secure financial background.

Anyhow, I digress, what I actually wanted to discuss were trousers (...or pants, if you must).

Fall 2010

Firstly I have to say that I really would like some mohair arm warmers for Winter. Although as much as I loved the styling with the pushed up sleeves, I am not entirely sure how practical that would be on a cold day. However aesthetically it looked quite beautiful.

What attracts me most to Chai's work are his silhouettes - he has quite the fitted upper with a slouched lower half tapering gently towards the ankles. It is quite a subtle cut, and yet looking at the thighs and seat of the trousers you really do notice the difference. The more comfortable fit is no doubt a testament to his particularly casual style, and it is quite refreshing in the light of knitted leggings and super fitted trousers.

I have been on a personal hunt for a rather specific style of trousers. I would like a pair of woolen high rise trousers, although with a visible slouch to the seat, with a pleated front, and a leg which tapers gently towards the ankles, essentially providing a similar silhouette to Chai's signature cut. Admittedly his trousers tend to be flat fronted to emphasis the sport's wear inspired influences that run throughout his work, however I find them just as attractive.

I love these trousers, they have a cool Robert Geller edge to them.

Fall 2009

Of course as much as I would love a pair of smarter trousers in Chai's cut, such as the two above, he is most notable for his more casual and minimal designs. The casual trousers below, from his Spring 2009 collection, still stand out particularly vivid in my mind. It is odd to think of how relevant these looks still are. I must admit that the first look with the pink cotton pea coat and khakis does remind me quite a lot of Comme des Garçons, although being far more fitted than Rei would have you wear.

Spring 2009

I suppose these cuts require a certain physique for the optimal look, but I think they are pretty much suitable for most body types, which is always nice. Then again, there are not that many men I know of who are particularly concerned about looking like they have fat hips. Were these women's trousers...well that would be another matter.

Currently playing: Last Night - Movado

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14 comments:

  1. He definitely has the fine young man in mind in this collection. I could definitely see my brother or my boyfriend easily wanting to wear his stuff. He's got the slouch portion down just right.

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  2. I so would love to find a guy in one of these outfits!

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  3. Coats, sweaters, and boots oh-my!
    And all in gorgeous shades of charcoal grey.
    I've said it before and I'll say it again, men in America need to dress like this.

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  4. i'm liking the jacket in the last picture..really edgy :)

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  5. i cant wait for the fall cause i feel like i cant find trousers anywhere! i want them noooow!

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  6. i'm all about the trousers at the moment, not really liking many of my jeans currently. all my trousers and much more generously cut, and much comfier hence the fit. bring on woollies for next winter

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  7. Those are very snazzy looking trousers - great cut and gorgeous fabrics - a bit different but not too over the top. I'm not so keen on the set with the bottoms rolled up though - I prefeer the top set on the catwalk.

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  8. I adore grey. There is something so simple yet strong about it...

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  9. Très jolie les ensembles des deux dernières photos un look d'enfer !!!

    Séréna

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