10 September 2009

"A little unorthodox perhaps..."

I have always found the relationship between creation and destruction quite a marvelous symbiosis. Life itself is a continual cycle, and where one piece of beauty may end, another piece of beauty begins. That beauty may take the form of a new life, a new memory, a new emotion or indeed a whole new way of looking and appreciating the world. I suppose that it is true that light shines the brightest when surrounded by darkness.

The balance between the forces of creation and destruction in fashion is an interesting one to behold. One may find a designer spending weeks labouring over the conscious destruction of a garment in order to find the balance they feel in their self that needs to be expressed. Creative destruction is after all one of the most alluring of design concepts, even if the allure of the idea itself may often be mysterious when taken in abstract. You may not be overly excited over the prospects of seeing a sweater with frayed hems and patched over holes, and yet in person there may just be that artfully styled piece which calls out to you.

Personally I have always found the conscious aging and wearing in of garments to be a finish best left to others to wear. I prefer to wear garments which in time come to display my own story, whether that be through fading, tears or holes that have to be darned or patched. Whilst I appreciate the art of masterfully faded and aged clothing, or indeed stylized destruction, the process of the natural destruction and conscious revitalizing of clothing is far more appealing to me.

'No brothers No sisters'
Fall '09 Collection
by Tijana Pavlov

There is however an area of fashion where I find the juxtaposition and play between creation and destruction highly fascinating, and that would be in fashion photography. I was recently looking over the Fall '09 lookbook from the Serbian designer Tijana Pavlov, and was struck by the beautiful location of the shoot. The collection had a dark and wonderfully brooding futuristic feel to it, and as such it could have been easy for the shoot to have been set across an equally dark and shadowy landscape. Yet the abandoned ruins of an industrial complex created the perfect setting for the lookbook, with a beautifully post-apocalyptic and destructive feel.

It may often seem like the easy setting for your industrial or functional inspired look, and yet it can often be a setting that actually detracts from the shot. Indeed one does not want a location to overpower a collection in any real way, unless of course one sets out with the mind to truly express a concept as a whole in the lookbook. Here I believe that the careful composition taking into consideration the natural lighting and beautifully subtle colours of the backdrop truly create outstanding shots. Whilst there is certainly a clean finish, especially taking into account the actual clothing, a sense of gritty realism is not far, especially in the emotive close ups. There is always that contrast between the new and clean feel of the clothing and the background, and yet here the colour play was such that the image easily fell into place as a whole.

I was also rather taken by the collection itself, specifically the outerwear pieces. The long fitted coats had a particularly dark charm to them, and with such garments I can never quite shake the mental image of myself swishing the coat as I turn to walk away. I was fascinated by the choice of belting around the upper part on a few of the jackets, for it seemed to create an interesting bondage like feel, especially with regards to the cropped leather jacket. I have always felt the concept of bondage and restraints quite akin to outerwear, for after all, the primary function of a jacket or coat is for use as protection from the elements. We have that infantile desire to be protected, and in a way, I suppose that the belting fulfills that need at some subconscious level.

Currently playing: Building Steam From A Grain Of Salt - DJ Shadow

xxxx

43 comments:

  1. some pieces of that collection are soo stunning <3

    xoxo

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  2. Dont know why but it really reminds me of Damir Doma or Rick Owens. Some of the pieces looks really good! im impressed!

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  3. I agree with Frank&Rémy. So fantastic. Thanks for sharing it, DK!

    Have a wonderful day!

    XoXo

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  4. very end of he world ish

    made me think of 28 days later

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  5. Holy harcore, Batman, those pieces look so tough.

    Come to think of it, so does the location. Such beautiful light and textures.

    * Kelsey

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  6. Great photos, stunning collection. You always find the most unique inspired designers. :)
    I agree with you about holding on to clothes that tell your life story. I find it hard to part with a dress or shirt that has a lot of memories, even if it is torn. After all, that's a story within itself too.

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  7. Tijana's work is stunning, very talented!

    :)

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  8. Dark charm is right, DK! Love these looks and photos, and your eloquently written passage!

    xoxox,
    CC

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  9. ooh the long fitted coats! Get me so excited for fall weather! :)

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  10. The lookbook is breathtaking. It evokes a feeling of solidarity, but not loneliness. I also love the post-apocalyptic landscape. The angles are even odd. The leatherwork in the collection is mind-blowing as well. The necklines really stand out to me. They are so diverse and structured.

    Also, I love the idea that outerwear--on some level--fills that desire to be protected and at the same time the intrigue of being restrained.

    Paz
    Diego
    Freefall Blog
    http://freefallblog.blogspot.com

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  11. these collections are beautiful!

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  12. I agree, the setting for the photoshoot perfectly compliments the garments. I love the make up on the models too, very creepy but again looks perfect with the Warehouse location!

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  13. it is so beautifully photographed...the collection, combined with location are very haunting.

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  14. omg! this is sick! love it!!

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  15. The garments with the background is just matching perfectly !

    Love all the elements and materials used together <3

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  16. I like your take on the subject of creation and destruction. Very interesting read!

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  17. I love the shoots with so much grungy backgrounds---especially if the clothing is especially ethereal....although it works well with this designer also.

    And these models were exceptionally amazing, by the by----yum.

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  18. i really like the androgynous looks that are played up here . great choice of male models .

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  19. the images are stunning but what i enjoyed most? are your writings. its thoughtful and beautifully written, an experience on its own.

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  20. Absolutely stunning and very insightful

    creative destruction is perhaps my favorite way to express my creativity

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  21. sometimes it is harder to deconstruct in fashion afterall there is no set rule. hope you have a fabulous day.

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  22. wow! i love it! it's so... MAJOR! and fabulous!
    have a great day!

    xx

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  23. Yet again, I don't know what I am floored by more - Your writing or the lookbook images. Being a compulsive reader, I can't help but ponder over every review, every opinion, and take it all in gradually, entirely. Great images. Great writing.

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  24. I dont know but something is good in it...that kind of husky look ,and that way of putting on is great i guess....



    Jolliees:-)

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  25. I think they have a different perspective of the world..since they have been through things probably some of us can only imagine..sort of this dark gothic vampirish sense to it.(definitely not Twilight though)

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  26. all your blog posts are so inspirational. you write really well :) this is a really amazing shoot. the photography is stunning

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  27. I really admire your depth and curiosity in which you explore various subjects. I too am fascinated with the relationship of creation and destruction. Great post.
    xo

    Thanks for stopping by it so appreciated.

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  28. I'm not hugely into the destruction trend, but I always find that I can't stand it when something is too pristine. I have to muss it up a little. Nice post :)

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  29. love the photos

    great post!

    xx
    Selena

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  30. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  31. I adore the concept. Love the coats!

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  32. hi dapper, great post!
    i love reading and hearing your opinion as always.
    you're truly a good writer.
    keep up the good work.

    http://momfashionworld.blogspot.com/

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  33. what a totally insightful article! love it tremendously. you're right. i prefer natural wears and tears (or even induced ones) cuz they give the character a deeper story:)

    the collection is beautiful too.


    xxoo
    eden
    http://chicinthetropics.blogspot.com

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  34. Thanks for sharing. The Fall 09 collection by Serbian designer Tijana Pavlov is uniquely bewitching to me particularly because of the wearability of everything and it's juxtaposition with the drearyness of the location of the shoot (as you mentioned). I would wear all of the pieces you featured and that kind of design is brilliant as much as it is fashionable.

    Love too the concept of creation and destruction as a mutual concept. Great illustration.

    Have a great weekend....and here's to pondering about whether DIYed/ well-worn pieces make the best distressing or whether designers do a good enough 'lazy' feel to it ;)

    xx
    Anika

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  35. You summed up all my feelings perfectly, DK.

    Lots of times, these types of settings look contrived, but this time, everything meshed together perfectly. I loved the contrast of the clothing to the setting.

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  36. this is actually a comment on the earlier post "a rural escape" but I'm putting it here so it is found

    just found this person doing the look really well

    http://lookbook.nu/look/237987-NORTHERN-QUARTER

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  37. Hey there. This is another incredible post from you. Your postings are always so insightful and fascinating. They make me think. I like that. Hope you've had a great weekend.

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  38. Intense. You're a great writer, you know that?

    AHhaha and yeah, I'm back!

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