24 May 2009

Modern Gothic Romanticism


Gothic fiction, with its fascinating blend of romance and horror, was to reach its peak during the Victorian era. During the first half of the 19th century, works were widespread in the form of cheap Penny books for the working classes. Towards the late 19th century, works such as the Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde and Dracula, would come to define the dark yet beautiful genre.

Indeed the imagery evoked by the Victorian realisation of Gothic Romanticism shall always appeal to me, in the very juxtaposition of its ideals, and effortlessly beautiful vision. Of course contemporary Pop culture frequently sees a ressurgence in the popularity of the Victorian vision, from Interview With The Vampire to the most recent novels of the Twilight series. Although admittedly realised with varying degrees of quality, these are nevertheless interesting enough.

The European imaginings of Gothic Romanticism have always differed in nature to the American vision in a number of ways. And as such, when I think of German-born, Robert Geller, who is now considered as an American designer, I always feel a sense of European charm to his work. Indeed with his latest Fall '09 collection, his modern take on the Late Victorian Gothic had a wonderful appeal for me. The clothing had a romance and elegance that I always imagine of the period, yet his vision was clearly tempered with a contemporary eye, making it far more relevant to the wearers of today.

What struck me first was the beautifully considered colour palette, especially when presented on the canvas of the dark wooden runway, accessorised with hanging, dried autumnal foliage. The blacks were coupled with equally dark shades of plum and midnight blue, with the occasional pop of bright gold or indeed in the case of the dip-dyed shirt, pinks. These subtle colourings allowed for a wonderful sense of visual depth and interest, without being overly brash or loud. Indeed, it was, not what I would like to call restraint, but rather the fine measure that Geller used in both colouring and styling that I appreciated greatly.

The interesting combination of fabrics were also something that added a beautiful subtle contrast to the collection. The use of denim for the grey jacket, or the employment of leather jeans, gave the looks a decidedly contemporary feel. And it was this choice that helped the collection to look more accessible and wearable, than say, an equally beautiful, yet far more conceptual Alexander McQueen show. The use of leathers, denims, mohair, and other heavier weight fabrics gave the collection a suitably autumnal feel, that was underpinned by the darker colour choices.

The overall style of the looks was however my main attraction to the collection. From the use of the wing collars, to the elaborate bows, to the cutaway jackets and waistcoats, there was a clear sense of the period inspiration. And yet, once again, the fine measure employed by Geller, gave the looks a far more subtle finish, with the more fitted cuts, and only slightly looser shirts, giving a clear wearability.

I was therefore excited to see the LookBook for the Fall '09 collection, where this wearability factor was emphasised. Removed from its setting on the catwalk, the pieces felt far more modern and the subtle quality of the pieces truly did show through. In that matter, I feel the decision to shoot against a plain studio backdrop was a good one. I was also drawn to the interesting poses of the model, allowing the fit and shape of the garments to be displayed in a creative, and yet suitable fashion. I am rather tempted to now go and experiment with a few scarf tying techniques...


Currently playing: Para Tu Amor - Juanes

xxxx

84 comments:

  1. Dearest DK, I think this post is 100% you at your best. History & opinion, fashion, social commentary, and history, all rolled in to one. It was a joy to read!

    Reading it, I can't help but think of how much came out of the Victorian era that is still so relevant today. Especially when it comes to social attitudes and fashion. Steampunk is based out of the era as well, and derives great influences from it. For a time that is considered prudish and stuffy, it's amazing how influential it continues to be...

    ReplyDelete
  2. Wow... God knows i cant resist a man in a leather jacket! Really cool post!!

    (love your new Header!)

    xx

    ReplyDelete
  3. Whoo, I think i would be slightly scared meeting one of them in a dark alley.. But honestly, who can resist a vampire since Rob. patterson in twilight?

    Impossible eh?

    ReplyDelete
  4. the leather pants from the 1st runway pic with the cardigan&scarf combo from the 3rd one oh yeah!

    x karla

    ReplyDelete
  5. So chic! And the colors are just perfect.

    ReplyDelete
  6. oh & happy blogrthday (haha what a lame word union:D)

    x karla

    ReplyDelete
  7. Robert Geller really deserves his award, he's a fantastic creative. Love the belted oversize scarf :o]

    ReplyDelete
  8. I love these images !
    I gave you an award !

    ReplyDelete
  9. leather jeans! that is tough and thanks for sharing this line!

    ReplyDelete
  10. thanks to Twilight..this should sale like hot cakes..I was watching make me a supermodel last week and noticed so much blond in the catwalk of the gothic model show. It was over the top. I don't think any real model would have to be put to the test that way.

    Hope you're having a good weekend.

    ReplyDelete
  11. I must say that I couldn't agree more :D
    You put it all perfectly, love!

    I absolutely love the shots. Each and every one!

    xo,
    hk

    ReplyDelete
  12. haha! you are now officially a very cool dude. i can't even imagine the greatness your invitations would possess! and wow, i do love these bowties, and the color palette is just amazing!!! plum always does it for me, especially in combination with these other colors. best men's collection i've seen in some time.

    ReplyDelete
  13. oh..it would be funny to see my boyfriend in a big bow tie like that.

    I loved your article about this. Very fetching. Especially those one pair of pants. um um...hahahaha..I don't think he'd wear those either.

    Thanks for the note. Well, here in the states, I think more of us are staying at home, but usually, we like to clump together first at least a year or so and see if we can make it without mom and dad, but as has been...my brother has moved back home once with his girlfriend. She'd just moved in to help with the rent..but when his roommate went to jail they couldn't quite hack it and her parents wouldn't let her move back home so they spent 6 months with my parents. A rather interesting time for my mom. But now they are back into their own apartment. On a day like today with my car going out, I pretty much wish I was with my parents at the moment. My Dad was a great help today.

    ReplyDelete
  14. This is such a great post and I agree with what Ashe Mischief you talk about so many points of view.

    Great, great

    xoxo

    ReplyDelete
  15. I really love this style, but anything that's beautiful with dark undertones appeals to me. It's not really related to this post but I think that's why I loved the TV series 'Pushing Daisies' so much because at a first glance it's all bright colours and fairytale locations but when you think about what it's actually about, it's really quite morbid.

    On a sort of more related note, those dip dye shirts are amazing!

    ReplyDelete
  16. love it! i like a good bow
    GREAT post

    ReplyDelete
  17. Wow, that was a great and insightful article. Always a delight to read. :)

    I've never been a fan of purple but I must admit this plum is to die for, as is the deep blue. I wish there were more guys wearing this oh-so-elegant Victorian Gothic style.

    Thanks for the link. You'll have to invite me when you live at the Courtauld, I'm intrigued! ;) Get better very soon. x

    ReplyDelete
  18. Love the deep blue and plum color---so rich--almost aristocratic, don't you think? And the jackets are superb! Love the cut and the surprise of denim and leather.

    Amazing stuff!

    ReplyDelete
  19. I love the Victorian inspired clothing! There's something so special and romantic about that period! I love the models' hair! xxoxoxo

    ReplyDelete
  20. This was a great informative post with great imagery as well. You are soo good at what you do :)

    ReplyDelete
  21. Love the collection and photos and your take on them. Very goth-chic indeed! Love the wraps and scarves/ties in particular.

    Your new banner rocks, too, DK!

    xoxox,
    CC

    ReplyDelete
  22. Terrific post. I think the touches of plum, pink and blue do soften the outfit a bit and take the hard edge off. I've always loved this type of color combination. I also like the modern touches Geller made to the Victorian Gothic look. While I do like my share of Gothic Romanticism that movies occasionally conjure up (especially if they are of the Tim Burton/Sleepy Hollow nature), seeing too much drab lace and heavy velvets gets a bit old after a while. This is definitely refreshing to look at.

    ReplyDelete
  23. i would wear all of those i would wear each and every one of those outfits. and the glasses in the top shots are sharp. i am so excited to pick my frames up this week! glasses are certainly another accessory for us to play with ;)
    xo s

    ReplyDelete
  24. Hi!

    Thanks for your lovely comment @ my blog! Really appreciate it.

    And I noticed, in your profile says as your profession you're also a ninja. hehehehe.... lol... are you?

    x

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  25. wow, look at all those cheek bones!

    ReplyDelete
  26. Such an interesting post,great writing!
    I love the styling of the clothes too, I think it adds to the whole gothic vibe,that third picture is so awesome, with the scarf/cardigan combo he is rocking!

    ReplyDelete
  27. Great review! Love how the models are styled and the hair just completes the overall attitude and look. I agree that the leather pants def. help give a modern vibe. And I'm sure you've already received this, but I just gave the Lovely Blog Award to you. I wrote about it on my blog. :)

    xo, Becs

    ReplyDelete
  28. Do you know what? You're a really good writer! I love reading your blog ^^

    Btw. I love Juanes :D

    ReplyDelete
  29. Oh these pieces are gorgeous! It's a refreshing change from the grunge trend that is happening. Maybe we'll swing from 90s to something a little more romantic soon.

    I love the mix of puce, maroon, and deep blues and purples with the blacks and grays.

    ReplyDelete
  30. Hey DK!
    I love this collection, I don't know why I'm always so drawn to the darker sides of things, but with a touch of whimsy.

    I think you should try out all the scarf tying techniques you can muster and then take pics for us! :)

    Lots of love,
    Liz

    ReplyDelete
  31. I love the photos, but I don't like juanes :p

    ReplyDelete
  32. These are really nice. I went through a goth phase when I was younger. I enjoyed your post. It brought back memories.

    ReplyDelete
  33. I like the picture with the vest. I think guys look great in vests. Have you seen the Mentalist? Simon Baker...Ahhh so dreamy hahaha =)

    ReplyDelete
  34. Aww I loved that video you made down there :) Congrats on the blog birthday. Your blog is really such a great inspiration. Anyways.. I love these gothic pieces, and it is really really making me miss winter! the color palette is just so wonderful.

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