6 May 2009

The Gucci Man


I was watching a documentary this morning on the French Riviera during the 1960s - an exciting place to be during an exciting time. The archive footage showed men in wonderfully fitted suits, driving leisurely in the bright sunshine alongside willowy women in bright print dresses. The summer months saw the rich and famous descend into the beautiful surroundings, simultaneously with an influx of great fashion. Mesmerised by the stunning imagery and clothing, I was reminded of Frida Giannini's exuberant and energetic Spring '07 offering for Gucci.

Looking at Gucci menswear before the Spring '07 collection, it felt as if Giannini was still finding her vision for the Gucci man. Compared to the looks being executed in the womenswear collections, the menswear was lacking a certain finish and charm. There was always a slight hesistation, which made it feel as if there was more beneath the surface that had not been expressed. Whilst there was a clear identity for the Gucci woman, it did not really feel as if the Gucci man belonged by her side.

However, it would be in the Spring '07 collection, that the Gucci man would find his true standing. Exquisite tailoring, combined with colourful prints and a wonderfully laid back elegance made sure that the Gucci man now had something to be proud of. Giannini had already looked back to the fantastic Gucci printed scarves of the '60s and '70s in her earlier womenswear collections, and here it was clear that her fascination had found its menswear realisation. The colourful and well cut looks were beautifully reminiscent of those '60s Riviera days.

Whilst the collection had a clear energy, it was not overpowering in its display. The purple trousers or turquoise t-shirt were given a carefully considered cut allowing them a certain adopted elegance. The pairing of these colours gave an excellent sense of belonging, in that when laid against a brown leather jacket, or two tone shoes, they were not brash in their statement.

Comparatively the suits actually felt subtly restrained. The clashing of fine prints and absence of the more brighter colours employed in the casual looks, meant that there was a sense of balance in the collection. One could be refined and elegant at one moment, yet at another, let loose with a suede jacket or purple cardigan. The was a visual coherence between the smart and casual, yet a subtle distinction in their relationship.

Indeed, Giannini managed to achieve a wonderful sense of balance in her collection as a whole. There was a joyful energy, which was clearly exuberant in its display, alongisde well measured formal looks with clashing prints. The collection was fun and full of energy, yet at the same time had that relaxed charm. It was not over considered in its statement, which can be a difficult line to maintain with so many colours and wild prints. It was most definitely the birth of the new Gucci man.

Currently playing: Cello Suite No. 1 (Bach) - Yo-Yo Ma

xxxx

45 comments:

  1. Beautiful collection :)

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  2. Gorge collection. Lazy, but sexy!

    XoXo

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  3. sounds like an interesting documentary! what was it called? id love to see it.
    first and last gucci models are my husbands (haha), divine!

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  4. Oooh I totally love the third outfit! Actually, all of the outfits with bright color. It gives the look a fun, sort of summery feel to it.

    xo,
    h

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  5. wow,, love it..

    wanna xchange link?

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  6. Easy, a bit sexy.. wish that more men would dress like that.

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  7. I REALLYYYYYYYY miss Tom Ford's Gucci man. He was a sexpot. I feel like Frida's femmed him up too much. He's no longer mysterious; he's your gay best friend.

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  8. I never really liked this collection at first, but when you look closer you can see it really is well made! The colours are great, more man should dress like Gucci wants them to:)
    The first model kinda looks like that actor, rhys meyer!

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  9. Aaah its so funny to read your blog in dutch with google translator! hihi espacially the blog names!

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  10. it's about finding the right balance- formal/smart and casual...I love the colour combo in this collection! ~XO*

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  11. I couldn't picture this as Gucci, until you said Giannini was the head designer for this. I love Tom for Gucci, but his stuff was always so dark. This is a color palette overload I love.

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  12. Great post--you were so thoughtful in your consideration of this collection. :-)

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  13. I love Gucci menswear, and you are right, this collection is a tad more restrained than usual... I adooore the striped pants and leather jacket look!

    xoxox,
    CC

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  14. Thanks! I found it from H&M Boy Junior=) hahaha

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  15. I like the fit of these. Perfect tailoring.

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  16. The catwalk clothes are pretty amazing too!
    I love it when I see people in hot off the press catwalk clothes.
    Mind if I follow your blog?

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  17. Great post Dapper, I am definitely feeling the relaxed element from the open jackets but I love the fun vibe too and am so drawn to those Lilac trousers! Wow!

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  18. cool purple pants..the stripes are cool too.

    thanks so much for the note.

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  19. those shoulders are awesome...and perfect. not margiela shoulders but but armani's simplified version either. just perfect :-)

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  20. the suits are beautiful...
    xx-LJ from SOS!

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  21. Love the first two.
    I just love classic looks, especially in mens clothing.

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  22. you certainly captured this one in your review. you could definitely be a gucci guy...

    Thanks.

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  23. I agree with you completely about this collection! It was fresh, modern and has a distinct charm from the other designer's collections. Very appealing! xxoxoxoxo

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  24. these are all so beautiful, but i'm really in love with that brown leather jacket and the sheen of the khaki pants right below. stunning, darling.

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  25. oh i would so love to have lived there in the 60's even though it'd mean i'd be old and wrinkly as an elephant now! i love the bright colours in the collection combined with leather and softer colours like brown and beige...
    so refreshing and lovely!

    xoxo suzie

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  26. beautiful collection.
    wonderful blog!
    : )
    xoxo
    www.glossybossy.blogspot.com

    p.s thank you for the comment

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  27. I'm sure this is going to inspire you to see what's in your closet. Great post!

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  28. haha I love how the "Gucci man" is almost a formal term, like how they referred to the "Renaissance man" during the Renaissance. Societal designations and characteristics are so interesting!

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  29. wow, I really like the first two, but after that it's a little too flamboyant. but all-n-all totally hip!

    jess s//

    ps//great blog!

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  30. If I were rich I would soo be picking a lot of stuff at gucci. great post, i love menswear posts!

    C.

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  31. These are very nice. I love them all. Great post. Now I'm imagining being somewhere like Monte Carlo in the 1960's.

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  32. Dare I say that this collection looks so 60's British?

    Love, love it! Wish more guys could get away with it....

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  33. I'll take one gucci man please! I love the first two pics - the cut of the suits are fabulous :) x

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  34. Waw! I could even wear those suits! Loved this collection, really. I actually like Giannini's work here, but I definately miss Tom Ford for the woman line at Gucci (... -sigh-)

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  35. Fantastic! Great color palette.

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  36. mmm, I love the colours!!

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  37. this is such a great collection!

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  38. I'm liking 1st and 3rd suits best.
    SHARP.

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  39. glamorous, and I love it :)

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  40. Love the editorial, great consideartions, hun.
    Indeed a nice collection.

    xoxo

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  41. ooolala!!! this collection was very very cool :D

    xoxo
    Metra

    http://lustluv.blogspot.com

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  42. I would have never guessed Gucci...but I love it. Why can't I find a man with such style DK? :)

    Great post!

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  43. I always love gucci menswear
    that and michael kors ;)

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  44. Actually this was Giannini's first menswear collection for Gucci. I'm obsessed with her :) John Ray was the menswear designer prior to this collection. That's probably why you weren't too fond of the men's collections until spring '07 when Giannini took John Rays place.

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