20 April 2009

Crumpled Beauty


Having worked under legendary designer Yohji Yamamoto for a number of years, both Masakatsu Takayanagi and Yuki Taniyama decided in 2002 to make the move into creating a fashion label of their own. The images above are a selection from the fantastic Spring '09 collection from kiryuyrik.

The first aspect one notes of the collection is Takayanagi's decision to use blacks and greys throughout. Admittedly not the colour palette one assumes for a spring collection, however given the background with Yamamoto it is an understandable choice. The fabric choices and cuts are what help these looks feel lighter in their design. By employing the use of very fine silks, jerseys and cottons, the visual weight of the looks are greatly cut down, and indeed they are also given a physically lighter and less restrictive quality.

The use of pre-wrinkled fabrics in the coats and jackets add an element of visual interest, especially when considering the beautiful sheen of many of the pieces under changing light. The clothing also rewards the viewer for a closer inspection via the fine embroidery and subtle patterning. Indeed one notes the intriguing detailing on the back of the waistcoats, ranging from the butterfly logo of kiryuyrik to a design of beautifully cascading flowers and petals. Even the simple casual tops sport these intricate details of cut away design and subtle colour balance.

The fit of the collection also stands out in being well executed, yet not overly designed making it more wearable. The fitted yet slouchy tops are often paired with jodhpur style trousers throughout the collection, giving a very easy and interesting silhouette to the looks. Indeed I am personally rather drawn to the black jodhpur trousers, with their slight thigh flair. The glossy striped suit and the crumpled tan trench also stand out as exceptional pieces, that would make a wondreful addition to any wardrobe.

I would be inclined to wear a piece with an entire monochrome look, yet would also be interested in seeing the glossy dark pieces, paired with whites or even very subtle pops of colour, for example with a patent red skinny belt or even just a colourful monochrome piece of jewelry.

Currently playing: Gibberish - Ryan Leslie

xxxx

33 comments:

  1. Oh I want to wear them. I love men's they are so sharply tailored.

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  2. These would not be what I would first think of for spring, but I really like them though. Thanks for posting this. Hope you have a great week.

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  3. Out of topic - out of the recommendations you gave me for architects I.M.Pei and Frank Gehry blew me away. Thanks.

    Robbie

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  4. Hey cool post! I like the pre=wrinkled look on guys

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  5. I love the back of that first jacket, it's all in the details. I am all for a completely monochrome collection (: Great post

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  6. There was an article on Woo young mi in Jalouse (or maybe Paris Vogue) in January, and I meant to mention it to you but I forgot until I saw this today:
    http://andrejskok.blogspot.com/2009/02/wooyoungmi-ss09-campaign-styling.html

    I think the blog owner did the styling for the spring/summer shoot. I love the whimsical accessories he uses.

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  7. Fabulous description, DK! Love the look of this line; it has a muted color palette but it's not boring. Love the blazer and overcoat and the wide stripe trousers (sans jacket). Very cool!

    xoxox,
    CC

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  8. Oh what a great line! And oh my goodness I love the trench so much. PS- i love the Johnny Depp pic here, is it new? It is great!

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  9. Black can be an iconic color no matter the season if the fabric is perfect for it. I totally agree to mix it up with a white belt of some off accessory to add a little something to it, too.

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  10. The blazer looks really nice. I am so in love wit that beanie.

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  11. He looks so great! Every outfit is so gorgeous! You're always posting so nice and special photos. I love it! :-D

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  12. What a terrific line. The details, fabric and cut really stand out in their own way. I lean towards black and greys so if I were a guy, I would be emptying my wallet for this :)

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  13. fantastic write-up. good look at the label, and i like it a lot.

    ps like the new header

    *bisous*

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  14. realy realy amazing!!
    love your blog <3


    exchange links???


    love lara

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  15. as i scrolled through these images before reading the text, i kept thinking of yohji yamamoto.. the influence is definitely visible.

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  16. I really love reading your posts, it's such an elegant writing. I love simple black and white outfits with the accessories as the same colors or some really unexpected bright colors.

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  17. I love those clothes!
    especially that last t-shirt.

    ...I fill them with a synthetic stuffing called "Polyfill" 'cause my mom had a bunch lying around, but I suppose you could use anything soft and stuffing-like. Cotton maybe? Or wool... Use whatever you like and whatever works for you. I'm excited to see what you make. please post a photo! :]

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  18. I very much enjoyed your analysis/commentary.

    That cream trench is gorgeous! By far my favourite of the pieces.

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  19. The jackets are absolutely beautiful! x

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  20. I SO love the scarves!
    :D

    I was in Saks today and tried on some MARVELOUS things (but, didn't buy anything, of course;). I'll have to post them once I get home :D

    l,
    Hannah

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  21. Wow. This is really visually interesting.
    Great post.
    x

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  22. There is something fresh about them despite the subdued palette. Also, is that laser-cut detailing on the back of a blazer? Gorgeous!

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  23. Wow! Love this line! The fitted suit is divine---the coat amazing and the model----yummy!

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  24. To be honest, I didn't even notice that the palette was so limited until the last few photos b/c the various textures and visual details on the clothes were so captivating. There is a casualness to these designs that is deceptive! I love the prewrinkled look.

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  25. What a cool post! I totally love the men costume! haha!

    Thank U very much for Ur lovely comment...

    X♥X♥

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  26. Wow, this is probably first time I want wear men's apparel, so smartly tailored. your blog rocks!

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  27. i'm digging the collection. i like their skillful use of textures.

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  28. I really like those! Especially the beanie!

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  29. I really like those! Especially the beanie!

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  30. hi dapper!
    it's been awhile i haven't visited your site, i was so busy.

    i love all the photos. i will try to make a DIY project of this outfit for mr. freddy!

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  31. i love that first jacket!

    http://pinkchampagnefashion.blogspot.com/

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  32. I love these pieces! They're so well done!
    Great post;*

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  33. The Yohji Yamamoto influence is clear. In other words, I love these so much, especially the jackets!

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