16 September 2008

Loving Touch of the Artisan









As the New York Spring 2009 shows came to end, I could not help but feel somewhat cheated. The men's shows were far from inspiring, with few looks really grabbing my attention. In stark comparison I found my attention ensared by the delightful designs of the women's collections, with the likes of Betsey Johnson, Doo.Ri and Jil Saunders.

However one collection did stand out for me, that of Gilded Age. Stefan Miljanic looked towards the artists of the New York scene towards the end of the 20th Century. With the likes of Edward Hopper and Jackson Pollock serving as inspiration, the collection was filled with lovingly crafted, vintage-inspired pieces. He paid particular attention to the materials and fabrics, which were undoubtedly the highlight of the designs. Each piece was carefully dyed and formed to give the deepest colours and finishes. Examples of these can be clearly seen in the wonderfully rich raw denim pieces and the hand faded denim jeans. Indeed Tim Blanks reports that the 'T-shirts were organically dyed in Japan, the intensity of the orange shade achieved by 12 days weathering on a rooftop, the indigo dipped 11 times to get its colo[u]r right'. Each garment showed the highest quality of care, which is something that is often amiss in modern collections.

It often seems that with the consumerism of our modern society and the 'throw away' lifestyle in which we are ensnared, that we have no space for lovingly made and long lasting garments. However for me the Gilded Age collection was exactly that, carefully crafted pieces with high attention to detail. Those who take relish in such garments will also have noticed the interior finishings of the individual pieces, which have all been equally carefully decorated and designed. Therefore it seems to appeal to those who really are appreciative of their clothing. Interiors are only seen by the wearer, and I personally feel that any designer that pays this area attention really does understand the love of a garment and attachment to it a buyer can and should feel.

Admittedly the designs in themselves were not exactly revolutionary or overlty 'trend' worthy, however for sheer overall quality and design, they were second to none. The attention to colour would have no doubt been of admiration by the likes of Hopper, who himself was a very accomplished colourist, providing inspiration for artists such as Mark Rothko. Robert Henri used to tell his students, among which Hopper was one, to "make a stir in the world" with their art. Hopefully the high attention to detail and crafting of this collection serves to show the fashion world something they have long been missing.

Currently playing: Streets On Fire ft. Matthew Santos - Lupe Fiasco

xxxx

21 comments:

  1. Styles live and trends come and go. I think what I'm looking at are classic styles which will stay with us for a long time. I sometimes wish I was a man.. and this is one of those.

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  2. Wow, those shoes are amazing!!!!! I love the shape of them.

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  3. Love me some Gilded Age. If I had the thousands to spend, I'd spend it on them.

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  4. Great post Dapper:) Hot models, not so sure about the clothes though...

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  5. Lovely post! I'm so happy that we'll see chinos again for spring/summer, they look so good on men! :)

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  6. imagine if all the other fashion noise were turned off and what remained were only those who "made a stir in the world."
    what a nice thought.

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  7. Clothing and Style are very much a form of Art as far as I think, anyway. I love this topic. Great collection of photos to accompany it as well.

    PS: Thank you! I actually thought of you when thinking of just the right accessory. So it's funny & coincidental that you loved them. (The earrings!!)

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  8. Men's fashion does seem to get neglected. It's interesting too how so much haute couture focuses on turning women into strange, unreal people but doesn't really view men as such an artistic canvas...
    And well crafted clothes...sigh, I guess this is why I like vintage, I can't afford really well made things otherwise.

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  9. I love Hopper, the Whitney has some great Hoppers, you must visit and see for yourself! I love the jeans (?) in the first shot, and the shoes, I'm kind of digging the shoes!

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  10. I also sometimes wish that I could wear men clothing. I love those photos.

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  12. Ahhhh, if only everyone spent that much care in dressing & making garments, the world would be a much happier place :)


    peace&♥.

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  13. True craftsmanship like what you describe can never be trendy, I suppose, because it's true nature precludes flash-in-the pan-ness. Something that takes that long to create can't possibly be priced for trendiness, or disposal. I love details, linings, and clasic looks like these.

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  14. love this. not too girly. and i love the subtle inconsistencies of the looks.

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  15. The number of well dressed good looking men in this post is mind-boggling.

    I've never been much of a menswear fashion follower, mostly because most of it just seems so inane, boring, and the same, time and time again. Maybe that's another reason why there aren't as many well-dressed men out there as we'd like.

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  16. I'm glad you mentioned that about the shoes. It seems to be such an ecclatic mix (sorry if I misspelled that. I noticed something on the TODAY show about men's style. Mentioned something about how vintage is in. Lots of suit jackets were mixed with jeans too.

    Hope you are having a good week.

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  17. To me the interior of the garment is just as important as the exterior...it's a combination that cannot be separated.Although the collection is rather simple, I love it for that reason.

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  18. fabric is very important.
    what is interesting is that i went to buy elle magazine, and there it was 15 pages of male fashion.
    is teh industry changing? realising how important that market is?

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